Tarlow’s new restaurant builds on everything he’s done so far, elevating all the usual Williamsburg tropes. The made-in-Brooklyn aesthetic he pioneered is much more polished in this soaring industrial space, its sepia-toned light fixtures, scuffed wooden tables and marble-topped bar all locally found or produced. The bearded barkeeps serving old-fashioned mixed drinks are more cheerful than most. And while the hyperseasonal fare celebrates nearby purveyors, there’s no indication to patrons where anything’s sourced.

Reynards is the new cool kid on the block without ever trying to be, a Balthazar for Brooklyn, urbane and ambitious, mature and low-key. Its chef, Sean Rembold, of Diner and Marlow, serves casual breakfast and lunch to a drop-in crowd, including a terrifically earthy grass-fed burger. His menu, which changes often—sometimes daily—becomes much more serious at night. There’s no fanfare at any time to his spare list of dishes, no trendy buzzwords, barely any descriptions at all. Rembold’s thoughtful food, portioned to satisfy and priced to move, mostly speaks for itself.


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